On the second day of TEXPO 2024, the runway transitioned from the bold, exaggerated designs of the opening to a more sophisticated blend of Eastern wear with contemporary functionality. Designers including Wardha Saleem, The Pink Tree Company, Humayun Alamgir, PLGMEA, Fahad Hussayn, Parishae Adnan, Zainab Chottani, HSY, and guest designer Michelangelo Winklaar from Holland showcased collections that honored traditional roots while incorporating diverse inspirations and ancient crafts.
Wardha Saleem
Wardha Saleem’s STARLIT collection aimed to capture the enchantment of the night but initially approached this theme cautiously. The early pieces featured wildlife prints in muted greys and blacks, making a more subdued impression compared to the vibrant animal prints from the previous day. However, the collection gained momentum with bold emerald hues, dragon motifs, and Grecian-inspired drapes, which were elegantly pleated and belted. Embellishments of Zardozi, crystals, and beadwork highlighted a stunning gold silk saree paired with a harlequin blouse adorned with 3D floral details, embodying the collection’s potential.
Fahad Hussayn
Fahad Hussayn’s Darker Shades of Hunza encapsulated various emerging trends while showcasing a distinctive vision. The collection opened with a breathtaking crimson outfit featuring a high-necked silk blouse and an architectural skirt embroidered with intricate maps, topped with a gilded botanical headpiece. This piece was a bold reinterpretation of heritage. Hussayn blended streetwear with the Silk Road concept, introducing a mint-green ensemble that transformed topographic designs into fashionable statements. Accessories made a significant impact, including crystal-encrusted baseball caps and oversized earrings, setting the tone for the upcoming season. For eveningwear, a dazzling dress adorned with three-dimensional roses in multicolored glitter showcased Hussayn’s technical prowess, with petals seemingly unfolding from bodice to hem.
Zainab Chottani
Zainab Chottani’s AURA drew inspiration from Kantha embroidery, traditionally used by Bengali women to repurpose old fabrics. She revitalized this art form with vibrant colors and accessible silhouettes, merging traditional craftsmanship with modern appeal. Her collection featured kurti-style tops, asymmetrical cuts, jackets, and co-ord sets, prominently featuring the Tree of Life motif for cohesion. Bright emerald, fuchsia, and coffee tones contrasted beautifully with the intricate yet monochromatic embroidery. The standout piece, modeled by Vaneeza Ahmed, was a powerful black waistcoat and lehenga combination topped with a long green Kantha jacket, proving that traditional craftsmanship and contemporary design can coexist.
Parishae
In Under Pressure, Parishae blended ’80s rebellion with contemporary angst, delivering dramatic yet precise designs. The highlight was a mirrored mosaic crop top paired with liquid-metal palazzo pants and architectural arm pieces, showcasing the collection’s balance between restriction and freedom. Drawing inspiration from icons like Freddie Mercury and David Bowie, the collection reimagined rather than duplicated the ’80s, presenting sophisticated punk aesthetics through Gothic motifs on cream palazzos and baroque-style blazers. The strength of fabric manipulation shone through in iridescent wide-leg pants that captured light beautifully. Parishae’s gender-fluid eveningwear stood out, featuring men in sequined bell bottoms and women in armor-like tops, reflecting a modern take on punk. Although some accessories, like studded chokers, were a bit literal, Under Pressure successfully merged nostalgia with innovation.
The Pink Tree Company
The Craft Clustered collection presented a commercially appealing perspective, albeit with some inconsistent execution. Featuring oversized silhouettes and traditional crafts, the collection highlighted voluminous pieces such as a camel maxi coat with folk-embroidered pockets and relaxed white dresses featuring graphic designs. Red emerged as the signature color, showcased through delicate threadwork on sarees and bold embroidery on traditional garments. Styling combined heritage and modernity, exemplified by pairing a red Chitrali cap with minimalist dresses. Accessories played a crucial role, with oversized coin earrings and gold accents enhancing simpler designs. Despite some missteps, such as a graphic hoodie dress, the collection emphasized trends like relaxed fits and bold accessories, suggesting that a luxury brand relying on heritage may need more refinement than disruption.
HSY
HSY’s TROUSSEAU offered a subtle approach to bridalwear, blending traditional Zardozi with understated cross-stitch embroidery inspired by his mother’s rose garden. The collection featured a soft, spring-like color palette across lehengas, sarees, organza kaftans, and men’s sherwanis, striking a balance between femininity and structure. The menswear component made a notable impression, showcasing how classic formal attire can be refreshed without theatrics or exaggerated shapes.
