Renowned Pakistani climber Sirbaz Khan made history on Friday by becoming the first Pakistani to summit all 14 of the world’s highest peaks, culminating in his successful ascent of Shishapangma, which stands at 8,027 meters. This remarkable achievement was confirmed by both Pakistan’s Alpine Club and Imagine Nepal.
The 14 peaks, commonly referred to as the “eight-thousanders,” are all over 8,000 meters high and represent the pinnacle of challenges in high-altitude mountaineering. Khan, who hails from Hunza, began his incredible journey in 2017 with the ascent of Nanga Parbat, known for being one of the most dangerous mountains in the world.
Over the years, he has conquered formidable peaks, including K2, Everest, and Annapurna, solidifying his status as one of the elite mountaineers globally. Notably, Khan accomplished 11 of these summits without the use of supplemental oxygen, demonstrating exceptional endurance and skill.
“Sirbaz Khan has become the first Pakistani mountaineer to conquer all 14 of the world’s peaks above 8,000 meters, in an incredible display of courage and determination,” stated Karrar Haidri, general secretary of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, in a message to Arab News. “This extraordinary accomplishment reflects his unwavering passion and dedication to mountaineering.”
Haidri emphasized the extreme challenges Khan faced throughout his climbing career, noting, “He has endured freezing temperatures, treacherous avalanches, oxygen-depleted altitudes, and the constant threat of crevasses, demonstrating remarkable resilience and strength. His success not only represents a personal triumph but also serves as an inspiration to mountaineers around the world.”
Khan’s achievement was also acknowledged by Imagine Nepal, the tour company that organized the expedition. In a social media post, they celebrated the climbers who reached the summit of Mt. Shishapangma, stating, “Mr. Sirbaz Khan has earned his place in history by summiting all 14 of the highest peaks, making him the first Pakistani climber to achieve this feat.”
Speaking to Arab News, Shahbaz Khan, Sirbaz’s brother, shared that the family was in high spirits. “We are gathered for our cousin’s wedding, and everyone is here to celebrate Sirbaz’s achievement,” he said. “We’re praying for his safe descent and look forward to warmly welcoming him back to Pakistan.”
Fellow climbers quickly extended their congratulations following the announcement of Khan’s success. “I salute your monumental achievement,” wrote Shehroz Kashif, a young climber who has already conquered 13 of the world’s tallest peaks. “Becoming the first Pakistani to summit all 14 8,000ers is a testament to your unwavering determination and mountaineering prowess. Your name etched in history inspires a nation.”
Kashif mentioned that he would be following in Khan’s footsteps shortly, as he prepares to summit his last peak in Tibet. Prominent female climber Naila Kiani also praised the achievement on social media, stating, “First Pakistani to summit all 14 X 8,000m peaks. History has been made.”
